Tuesday 20 December 2011

Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam in 3 days -Day 3 the Journey Day!

Paris Gare Du Nord 9:18 am

Brussels Gare Du Midi 11:23 am

Amsterdam Centraal 20:40
So this was the big day, I was ready to tackle three countries in one day, now given my tendency to get in to annoying but ultimately funny situations and end up in the wrong place at the wrong time this was potentially a foolhardy mission , one that did have its little hiccoughs but I was ultimately successful and didn't miss any connections which was considering my track record quite remarkable and possibly a miracle?

So mission one was too get to the Gard Du Nord - on time for the 10.01 TGV, I already had my ticket so step one was accomplished, having looked at the transport options and getting some unhelpful assistance from the Hotel staff I decided that the best option would be too walk to the Porte De Clignacourt and take metro directly too Gare du Nord, , I got too Gare du Nord an hour early , which really proves that a little planning goes a long way but there is nothing more exciting than that final ten minutes when your not sure if your going to make it or not.
Anyway got to Gare du Nord, do the usual thing you do when arriving at a transportation point and headed for the loo's,after my arduous fifteen minute walk and 10 minute metro ride I clearly needed to freshen up . Next was time to head to the departures board to find out when which platform the train was leaving from, it wasn't up yet. So I went outside to take the obligatory clock photo to document my three cities in one day mission after having a coffee it was time to head back to the departures board. Now this actually amused me greatly it was very obvious that there were only a handful of platforms that the TGV and the sign stated that the platform would be displayed at least ten minutes prior to departure which of course meant that it wouldn't be displayed until at least 9.49 , so everyone was standing, sitting or in some cases lying around the departures board until the platform was displayed then there was mad dash too platform 11, which in reality was the only platform that the train could be leaving from as it was the only one that was showing any sign of activity at that time. People the world over laugh at the Brits for queueing and waiting but the reality is (well at least from my small experiences) that everyone does it, its just that the the British way is a bit more orderly and organised than other countries.
My dream of seeing some French and Belgian countryside from the window of the train was rudely awakened when I realised that I had an aisle seat and I was irked even more by the fact that my neighbour slept the entire journey, but after the last few days of rushing around I was glad of a sit down and a relax.
Arrived in Brussels promptly and quickly found that my memory of one of my favourite city had left me a little in the preceding five years, so before setting out into the city I had too retreat back into the station to buy a 50 cent map and I was on my way for my precious four hours in the city.

Hotel de Ville - Grand Place- Bruxelles
A sort twenty minute stroll later and I knew exactly where I was opposite, the "Wedding Cake" in the Grand Place in Brussels one of my favourite places in the world.  A short walk round the square taking in the scenery and observing that Belgium was a lot colder than France I was next in the Rue de Bouchers, and began my usual ritual when I am there which is to go up and down the street via the Galeries Saint Hubert at least four times before eating in the first restaurant I saw.


Marche Aux Hierbes

Drug Opera


I had a nice menu du Jour , much nicer and cheaper actually than the previous day's in Paris actually, then had a quick peek at the Galeries Saint Hubert , I think I was heading to have a quick peek at Mannenquinn Pis but then I forgot , Chocolate must have distracted me but I've also seen him before :

Manneken Pis
Now apart from my love of Brussels and Belgium  generally it is also the cheapest place in Northern Europe to buy the old Cancer sticks, surprisingly the Belgians never seem to have cottoned on to this and they can be hard to find in large quantities in Brussels. So before heading for the next leg of my journey it was time to stock up, now on my walk to the Grand Place I had done a quick check in a tobacconist who not only had my brand but also could take a creditcard (for some reason you can pay for most things in Belgium using a card but usually not the old fags ). Sadly the Gentleman only had one box brand of my cigs . Feeling a bit frustrated that I had spent my time relaxingg and enjoying myself rather than attending to the job at hand I visited a few more shops to no avail before gaining success when one shopkeeper told me he could get me as many boxes as I wanted but I needed to return to the Grand Place to get the old cash. Now I hate carrying large quanties of cash about with me , at present I have about £30 in my purse and that really is a lot for me. I prefer to have between £10 and £20 and if the shit ever hit the fan I have my cards and my mobile to call for help. So I felt insecure carrying the money the short walk across the square. I returned to the shop , to be told that the shopkeepers son would be back shortly with my cigarettes. I was happy to wait and thought that the son was obtaining my bounty from an offsite stock room, after a few minutes I saw a young man going in and out of the shops I had already visited. The man resembled the son who I had barely looked at on my initial visit to the shop but I hoped I was wrong. After about thirty minutes the son returned with a pitiful amount of cigarettes the shop keeper said that if I came back at 7 he would have more I replied that I would be in Amsterdam by that point took my cigs and my money back for the missing cartons and left with oil boiling in my blood. That shopkeepers greed had cost me time when I could have been sourcing my fags independently and also now I was running round Brussells with best part of 400 euro in my pocket that had been expensive for me too obtain, that I had no idea how I was going to spend it 24 hours and also I was now behind on my schedule to get too the Gare Du Nord.

Given my afore mentioned total lack of sense of direction I had given myself an hour to walk the 15-20 minute walk to Gare Du Nord, now I feel that I know Brussels almost as well as my home city of Edinburgh so I was fairly confident that I could find the Gare du Nord reasonably quickly. It should also be noted that the first year after I returned to Edinburgh after 3 years of working abroad I had to phone my Dad on several occasions tell him where I was and ask how to get too where I wanted to go. So it should be surprise especially given my annoyance at the greedy man that I would soon find myself a wee bit lost. Knowing that a wee bit lost and a wee bit panic at being a wee bit lost can soon turn to being a big bit lost and a big bit panic that you will miss your connection I decided to do the sensible thing and ask someone for directions. I saw a youngish man, who looked a little bit french , a little bit dutch he was also smartly dressed so I hoped he was a young office worker on his lunch time stroll. I asked him in French  Ou est Le Gare du Nord, in an American accent he replied in English I really don't know I'm a stranger here too, goddammit for the perhaps the first time in my life I acknowledge my failings, hide my pride and ask for directions and pick the wrong guy ugghh! Anyway I took a few deep breaths and had another look at my map hoping that someone would come to my assistance, no-one did but I was 99% certain the way I had been headed was the wrong way and I headed the right way. I went past many sights on my way and in between panicking I was quite surprised that I had missed quite a lot of Brussels on my previous visits, such as the Royal Palace, turns out I have photos of this palace though so I must have seen it before.

Picture of Royal Palace Taken in 2004
 finally found the Gare Du Nord, and the Eurolines bus station shortly before my deadline of checking in for the bus ten minutes before the final check in time of half an hour before my journey. I checked in and was told to wait until they called my bus so after a quick trip to the loo and stocking up on a few refreshments I started to wait. Given that I had spent the last hour dashing to get too the station I was now not in the mood to sit and wait but I did. Until about 15:55 when I started to get my stuff together to get on the bus, mildly concerned that I could see no buses, I waited and waited and about 16:10 a bus pulled in and people got off and the driver went into the office. safe in the knowledge that driver was not with bus I revisited the loo, after the revisit, I started to gather myself together again. Then they called for the people to board the bus ..... for Paris,so I waited some more. Starting to get a bit more edgy now I joined the variety of nationalities now gathered outside where the word on the street was we had to wait , so we waited and waited, until around 1630 the bus arrived. Shortly after we were on our way. Part of my idea when deciding to travel three cities in one day was that as I had visited all three countries before so I thought it would be fun to see a bit more of the countryside , given that my view of France and Belgium had been obscured by sleeping beauty on the way to Brussels, I promptly fell asleep about five minutes after I got on the bus and when I woke up again it was dark. I did see a lot of car lights on the motorway though. However again after bombing around Paris for two days and my rush around Brussels it was nice to chillax for a while and the Spanish kids singing songs behind me the whole way was fairly entertaining. The journey did start to get tedious approaching three hours on the road  I had been getting hopeful that despite being late leaving we would arrive in Amsterdam on time and was pleased to see an approaching bus station. On arrival the driver said "ten minutes" in Dutch , we were at The Hague quite annoying. After the false stop we were on our way and finally arrived in Amsterdam around eight, but hold on this wasn't Centraal this was Amstel, where the F was Amstel? I was tired and hungry I was conscious that this combination had led to disaster my first night in Paris but on entering the train station I quickly found a ticket machine to buy a 24 hour OK cart and there was an approaching train so I decided to forgoe food and dash to the train. After a reasonable quick train ride I was at my destination:

Centraal Station 2040
I had done it !!! Fairly successfully 3 Cities in One day ! Yeah ! Although I did still have to find my hotel. Tired and hungry I decided to be sensible for once and call the hotel and ask for directions I was met with friendly and clear directions to the tram and what stop to get off . The Overtoom stop be sure and ask the driver for Overtoom stop, the tram was very busy so of course I didn't want to bother the driver so I didn't ask where the Overtoom stop was and overshot it by about a mile, so had to walk the length of the Overtoom. Back to the hotel, to be fair I could have jumped back on the tram but I was suffering from just a few more blocks syndrome. Eventually got to the hotel and checked in and over talked the half stoned receptionist to death. Got settled in and decided to go to the Leidersplein to grab a bite to eat , when I left the hotel I waited at the tram stop a few minutes before noticing a turkish snackshop across the road, thinking I haven't had shawarma for a while it was the perfect place and meal for that time of night. After eating my dinner I returned across the road and after a quick shower was time to immerse myself in wine and reading tourist material whilst the atmosphere around me turned slowly brown through smoke. I don't indulge myself but the laissez-faire attitude of Amsterdam had immersed into me and the every heavy air of the hotel and the increasing sweet smell did not bother me one iota!

Friday 16 December 2011

Pars, Brussels and Amsterdam in 3 Days - Day 2 Wednesday 26th October 2011


Funiculaire
Woke up on day 2 of my trip much more rested than on day one , headed on the much shorter metro journey to Montmartre, on alighting the metro I was aware that I was in a much poorer part of town and I felt in a hurry to get to my destination ( to be fair my hotel wasn't in the greatest of arrondissements, but I knew where I was going when I was there). Headed uphill as I figured that was the most likely direction for the Sacre Coeur , and arrived at the Funiculaire and once in the car and after the short journey up was half way up the hill to the Sacre-Coeur.

Beautiful Sacre Coeur

Had a look round the Basilica and enjoyed the sunny day times views of Paris:
Paris from the Basilica Steps



Autumn in Paris











After going inside and getting frustrated by the throngs of tourists was time to enter the "Village" of Montmartre, although it was a short Funicular ride from the city and an even shorter walk from the Basilica the village of Montmartre was a different world from the hustle bustle of the City and the tourist throngs of the Sacre Coeur , after leaving the tourist trap shops I enjoyed a short walk round the deserted streets of the village. 


Artists Paintings in Montmatre
Quiet Street in the Middle of the Busy City



















Walking round the streets there were very few people around but after looking at the fine Parisian streets below and enjoying the ambience of the colourful Montmartre buildings:

Pink Cafe
Green House/Gypsy House
















Just past the Green house I had a little encounter that interrupted my little day dream, an elderly woman walking with a small child and I had roughly this conversation with her "Excuse me Madame is this yours? " the lady showed me a band that looked like a wedding ring , "No, its not mine", "I think it's gold do you think its gold", "Well there looks to be a gold marque", "here you keep it as a present" then as it began to dawn on my face that this was possibly scam although she said again but in English this time a present, I declined and carried on walking slightly disturbed by the incident as I didn't know if I had avoided a whole load of trouble or turned down the opportunity to pawn a gold ring! Turns out I was right as this is a common scam in Paris quite how people gain from it I've no idea but glad I was careful.


Back of Basilica
The way down from Sacre-Coeur
























I returned to the throngs and made my way down to return to the busy city. Took one final look at the Basilica and headed for the Metro and Île de la Cité . I got distracted on the way down by the tourist shops and got some lovely scarves to remind me of my time in Paris.

Last View of Sacre-Coeur
On arriving at Île de la Cité had a wander round and whilst I was hungry was still a wee bit early to have lunch , what I really fancied was a cup of tea so I popped into a bar for a cup of tea, the tea was typical of any country which primarily drinks coffee, the tea was blah English Breakfast and served with super creamy milk, I was not impressed to be met by a bill for five Euro , mind you the pot was pretty:
Five Euro Cup of Tea!!




Despite the weakness of the tea my spirits were a little revived after a bit of refreshment and I was even more excited to see the "Shakespeare’s Bookshop" that features in Movies such as "Before Sunrise" and "Midnight in Paris", signs in the windows ask you respectfully to not take photos so as not to disturb their regular customers so I hope my side photo was respectful enough:
Shakespeares Bookshop
I then visited the beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral :

Side view of Notre Dame

After having a wander round the Cathedral , I had the Menu du Jour in a charming bar, the food wasn't that great but it had a charming atmosphere, then it was time to leave and head to the vedettes du Paris . NB the only attractions I paid to see on my Paris trip was the visit to http://www.tourmontparnasse56.com/ and http://www.vedettesdeparis.com/?langue=en were both courtesy of using my Tesco club card vouchers, so if you are planning visiting Paris no matter what your budget or time allowances are I would highly recommend you look down the back of your couch and see if you have any unused vouchers as both these attractions are well worth a visit and effectively they are free if using these vouchers.
Stonework on Side Of Notre Dame

Stained window of Notre Dame



Anyway predictably I went to the wrong Vedettes initially despite having the right vedettes clearly marked on a map and also texting my Dad so that he could Google and get me the address again. I think it was texting my Dad that confused me (not because he gave me wrong info more because I'm thick). Anyway arrived at the correct Vedettes finally and ducked out the first cruise as it was really busy and got on the second run when I had a nice seat up front and thoroughly enjoyed seeing the city from the river.
After finishing up on the cruise it was time to head to the main attraction for a close up view :
La Belle Tour Eiffel

Tour Montparnasse looking small



Belly of Le Tour
 After a wander round the bottom of the Tour and the Parc de Champs de Mars, it was time to muster up just enough energy to have a quick peek at Les Invalides, before deciding no I did not have enough energy left to visit the Louvre during its Wednesday night opening allegedly much less busy and cheaper, I did want to see the Mona Lisa but the energy and life was drained out of me so it was time to head to the hotel for a light bite to eat and a good nights sleep as I had a big day ahead of me the next day !
Les Invalides at Dusk






Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam in 3 Days Paris Day 1.5 Monday and Tuesday 24th and 25th October 2011




Autumn Colours Père Lachaise
 In July 2011, looking at the days papers reports on the fortieth anniversary of Jim Morrison's death I decided to realise one of my teenage dreams and visit Paris, the Cemetery of Père Lachaise, and my former idols Grave. Me being me I decided that the only way to do this would be to fly Edinburgh to Beauvais, then catch a train to Brussels then bus to Amsterdam quite why I decided to do this in four days is really beyond even me other than I thought it would be a fum, which to be honest it was, but I would recommend that anyone thinking about doing a similar trip leave at least eight day to complete this adventurous type of trip even if you have visited all three cities extensively in the past. A further recommendation would be that unless they're are substantial discounts for travelling to an airport other than Charles De Gaulle then go directly to Paris CDG. Anyway after an extended Journey to Paris due to landing at Beauvais, I spent a fitful first night at the Formulae 1 Montmatre http://www.accorhotels.com/gb/hotel-2539-formule-1-hotelf1-paris-porte-de-montmartre/index.shtml, this was mainly due to being over- tired , over- hungry and nothing to do with the hotel in question. The hotel itself was pretty much what it said on the the tin, the hotel was basic, cheap place to spend the night being such it was a bit out of the city , the area it was in was a bit dodgy but I was planning on doing a lot of site seeing in my two full days in Paris (if you continue to read you will see that I did), therefore hotel was fine and did nothing to warrant the horrendous reviews I have seen of the place on sites such as trip advisor. Anyway I had the dodgy nights sleep and woke up , still quiet tired, but fuelled by the simple but filling breakfast on offer and three massive cups of coffee I was ready to hit Paris, incidentally the breakfast cost under 4 euros and you could have as much coffee as you could drink, a bargain in this notoriously expensive city.
After a relatively painless metro journey I arrived at the very pretty Père Lachaise Cemetery and spent the first hour or so enjoying the surrounds I found the Monument below:
Oscar Wildes Grave
And was glad that the teenage dream I was realising was not to visit Oscar Wilde's Grave , for those that cannot read French it essentially says " The Monument of Oscar Wilde, is undertaking restoration work during October and November 2011. Thank you for not approaching and respecting the building works". For those that speak better French than me I apologise for my bad translation!! After this I left the Cemetery for a refreshment break and found some lovely floral displays just outside the Cemetery. I'm sure that the Florists would have preferred I buy the flowers than take photo's of them, but never mind!


Flowers Outside Père Lachaise
Trees in Père Lachaise

After rejoining the Cemetery I spent another hour so meandering through the cemetery's tree lined avenue before deciding that it really was time to fulfil what I had came here to do.

A Junction in le Cimetière
Graves on a Hill


Another Junction
 
 Up to this point I had been quite happy just meandering along hoping I would chance upon the correct grave but now felt it was time to move on and start exploring the city a bit more. The grave was quite difficult to find as it wasn't on the main drag as it were, however I did finally find it and was able to cross , see Jim Morrison's Grave off my list. I was quite frustrated that the grave was even forty years and four months after Morrison's death his grave was still surrounded by tourist's but I suppose what more can you expect of the most famous grave in the most famous cemetery in the world ?



Thursday 15 December 2011

Skye Holiday Day 7- Friday 11th June 2010

Glenbrittle
Woke up in lovely Glenbrittle, to a pretty miserable day, it was that horribly drizzly weather that can only happen in Scotland in June, my fellow hostelers were still a hostile bunch and after my preceding three wonderful days in Raasay and Flodigarry I was feeling very disgruntled. I tried to make the best of a bad situation and went for a cycle but it was in a forest and dark and spooky in the mist. So I decided to drive on one of the few roads in Skye that I still wanted to see which was the one  to Portnalong , but the whole Glenbrittle experience was not feeling as if it was a good one to me.
Eigg and Muck



 So I decided to stick to the Plan B and leave Skye early to go in search of my Ancestors in Aviemore, although this was part of my original plan I had ran out of days, and had planned to possibly go on the Saturday instead but it

Portnalong Ferry


felt right to go now. Of course my tales of Glenbrittle may not of put you off Glenbrittle entirely so if you would like to visit the hostel there please visit http://www.syha.org.uk/home.aspx, I would also like to reiterate that I only stayed there one night , so it was an isolated group of guests I encountered, the warden very nice and the rooms whilst basic were adequate. Also the shitty weather may have also effected my moods.  So I hope my comments will not be taken overly seriously. Anyway back on the road I went .............

Now this was a bit risky although I didn't realise it for a while, at this stage all I wanted to do was hot foot it, it off Skye and go back to the Mainland , my first idea that this might be a bad idea was on leaving Skye I was pulled over by the Police, being a fairly novice driver and generally a law abiding citizen this actually nearly gave me a heart attack, even after the police had a wee joke with me and explained they were just doing spot checks on cars headed to Rockness, and allowed me to go, without doing any checks on me or the vehicle , I still needed a minute or two to calm down. Anyway carried on and started to head towards the East, on what was actually a pretty amazing drive. Was stopping regularly to try and call the SYHA to try and change my booking for Glenbrittle to somewhere near Aviemore but being so deep in the country could not get a signal, finally got through about 4, only to be told that that the hostels were almost full to capacity and I needed to wait until 5 to try the Cairngorm lodge , when I did get through the guy literally laughed me off and said that I would be extremely lucky to get a bed when Rockness was on. Decided I may as well carry on and continue but was resigned to the fact that I may well have to drive all the way home. Near Aviemore I took a random junction into a small town and filled up on petrol. Decided on impulse to ask if there were any hostels or bunk rooms and was referred to a bunk house , a mile or so away. The directions were a bit vague and knowing my sense of direction was reluctant on embarking on a wild goose chase which may end up with me having to head toward Edinburgh anyway, but then someone else in the petrol station suggested the Hotel directly opposite may have bunk rooms , not only did they have them but they had one available. So therefore I found myself staying at the traditionally Scottish Carrbridge Hotel http://carrbridge.co.uk/html/hotel.html. After checking in to a small but perfectly formed bunk room , I decided to explore the village that I was choosing to call home that evening.
There is not much to Carrbridge, but like my bunk room it was small but perfectly formed, there was the attractive hotel, the charming bridge, a shop or two and a cafe. I had a bite to eat in the Cafe, lovely service from the local teenagers, the food not so hot. Carrbridge was almost exactly where I wanted it to be and before retiring I decided to visit the house of my Grandfather's birth and my fathers Christening in nearby Rothiemurcus:

Al-t-Na Cabner
North


The Road to Morlich

Skye Holiday Day 6 -Thursday 10th June 2010


On the Shores of Loch Snizort
 Another day another mini adventure on this wonderful Island. Was a bit late starting my days adventures, had to go to Portree in the morning to sort out copying my photo's on to disk as I'd filled up my memory card so eventually got on the road to Dunvegan just before lunch time. Got distracted on the way there when I found yet another random single track road and ended up in the lovely village of Stein, most famous for Donavan and having Skye's oldest pub. On the way back found the fairy bridge was a bit disappointed not to see any fairies but was a nice bridge!



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Stein Village

Fairy Bridge
 After an unfortunately un-magical experience at the fairy bridge it was on to Dun Vegan and off to Coral Beach for a cycle that turned into a bit of a walk as it was mostly grass, oh and you had to walk through a field of cows to get there not too good with large wild animals so befriended a couple of elderly Geordie's who guided me through. To be honest not too sure what they would have done if the large cows had gone mental but safety in numbers and all that!Survived the cows and was well rewarded for my cycle/walk.
On the way to Coral Beach
Coral Beach
 Top of the hill at Coral Beach
Way back from Coral Beach


On the way back from Coral beach I was very pleased with my little walk but there was more thing I had to do before leaving Dunvegan which was visit the bizarelly named Giant MacAskill Museum .
On entering the museum I had to ring a little bell and was about to leave when quite a tall and instantly recognizable as eccentric man arrived. He was also very interesting and obviously passionate about his family history. The museum was all the more bizarre for the fact that the giant MacAskill had never lived in Skye, he was from Harris and had indeed found fame in the U.S and Canada. However a tenouous blood link , linked him to the owner Peter MacAskill  hence the museum in Dunvegan.